Rogue Ales' Brutal Bitter

Although their XS series is a bit pricey (with the exception of Morimoto, which isn't truly XS but still an imperial and in their ceramic bottles), and the guy on heir labels is kind of cheesy, Rogue puts out some consistently good beer and I was happy to see their version of an ESB on the shelf.

It pours a solid amber with a huge tan head that stays for ever. Looks perfect for the type, and as usual Rogue can make a beer with a head that is considerable.

Smells like a bitter. Malty with solid hops that smell a bit grassy. Has a hint of pale or amber to it, but only because of the huge head throwing off so much of the smell. When that dies down you're left with a balanced smell that has both hops and a slightly bready malt.

Excellent bitterness, but not as bitter as an IPA. More like a pale or amber, but drier in the feel. Slightly grassy, but mostly just straight-up bitter without real definition. Not floral, not piney, barely grassy. Slightly sweet with a hint of bread from the malt.

Great beer. Solidly bitter without any one overbearing characteristic, right down the middle of the type. And while that usually denotes an unimiganitive beer, the fact is that this particular type calls for modesty despite the aggressive name. Hope it stays in the stores on a regular basis.