Friday, January 30, 2009

Southern Tier's Choklat

I'm not sure why, but I've been waiting for this one. I'm usually not a fan of chocolate stouts, but this one is well regarded and it's from a brewery that I can't get in Texas so of course that makes me want it more.

Deep opaque black with a moderate, medium tan head on even a hard pour. Small, slow bubbles apparent at the edge of the glass.

Smells great. Obvious chocolate that lingers between cocoa and semi-sweet and increases as it warms. Solid roasted malt backbone.

Bitterness hits you first, with a smooth, slow feel that feels like there's no carbonation. The chocolate comes next, almost as sweet as a Young's Double Chocolate Stout, but the 11% ABV and huge roasted bitterness keep it in check. Young's is like drinking a cake, this isn't subtle, but it's balanced.

This is not an every day beer. It's not that it's too big, but it is too chocolatey. Young's is sickly-sweet, this one is just chocolately. It would be good to split the bomber iwth friends as a dessert beer. Then hit the straight-up stouts, or maybe even straight-up coffee.

Nashoba Valley Brewery's Imperial Stout

I feel fairly fortunate to have received a sample of this small brewery's seasonal Imperial Stout. I've never heard of this brewery, but the label is interesting and I love trying new obscure breweries.

This one pours the standard inky black with a great deep tan head that thins, but not completely.

Uh-oh. Has a Belgian dubbel smell to it, so I let it warm. As it opened up a bit it smelled more like a solid, malty RIS. Deep bread, slight roasted coffee.

Interesting. Carbonation shows up in the feel to make is seem on the lighter side of imperial. At 70 IBU's it's surprisingly mellow, and same goes for the 8.2% ABV--both are well balanced and subdued. Very vinous--like Nashoba uses the same yeast for their beer as their wine. Compared to most impy stouts, this one is a bit lighter. All of the malt, roasted, and coffee flavors are there, just not as strong. Hints of Belgian beers pop up from time to time in the smell again, and in the taste. More like a Belgian strong ale than a dubbel now though.

Interesting take on an RIS. I don't like the phenols that show through from time to time, but they're very subdued. Overall this has the look and feel of an RIS, but it's more mellow than most. Good beer. Glad I had it.

Mercury Brewing Company's Ipswich Oatmeal Stout

Wanting to recover from a disappointing Palo Santo Marron experience, I went to a standby style from a brewery I've never tried. Mercury Brewing Company's Ipswich Oatmeal Stout was a huge improvement.

Pours an inky black with an almost cascading medium tan head. Looks great. Like all stouts, it's not too sexy in appearance. It pours more opaque than many regular stouts, but the head is big and that's what sets this one apart from most.

Smell is a little light at first--come to find out it was too cold right off the bat. As it warmed the smell improved, and was much more substantial. Grainy and roasted, with a little alcohol. Kind of close to a Ten FIDY, which is saying something because that's a huge impy stout.

Wow, great roasted bitterness that tastes like it comes more from the malt than hops. The 60 IBU's are very well balanced. Smooth, substantial feel, like some impys. Slightly sweet hint from the oatmeal but that's gone in a flash when the roasted flavor hits. Big taste in this one, and the smell opens up as it warms to match the bigger taste, and a coffee flavor comes out a bit when it warms as well. One of my favorite stouts so far.

Dogfish Head's Palo Santo Marron

So I said to myself, I think I'll start off with something light, like a brown, before starting in on the stouts tonight. Holy Crap Batman, this ain't a brown.

And in some ways that's fine, but in others it just shouldn't be called something it's not. You can't brew a pale and call it a pilsner (I'm looking at you, Prima Pils) any more than you can brew a damn near impy stout and call it a brown. I'm all for bending the rules, but you shouldn't just break them. Some people may call that "creative," or even "on the edge," but the truth is that this is a stout. No ifs ands or buts. It's not "difficult to define" any more than Arrogant Bastard makes beer that I'm "just not ready for." It's a stout.

It pours inky brown, like a brown stout. Great deep tan head that can't stay too long because of how malty the beer is--the pure weight seems to drag the head down. Small, slow bubbles. Opaque, with red highlights.

Deep, malty smell, like an immensely dark bread. Sharp alcohol smell comes through as well. Vinous, almost like a port.

Feels like a milk stout, because it has that smooth texture that lactose can impart. A vinous alcohol hits you right up front, and then fades to a heavily roasted malt flavor. As it warms the coffee comes out stronger, as does the alcohol. I like the beer. I will say that. But it ain't no brown. Its main flaw is an absolute inability to hide the alcohol. I think a good beer with this much body can have 12% ABV and not feel like it, and this one should have done more to try to mask it here. It gets in the way of the flavors and adds nothing. It would have been much better if properly labeled and without the high ABV.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

North Coast Brewing Company's Scrimshaw Pilsner

We just had a cold snap here in Houston, so you'd think tonight would call for at least a porter, and maybe a stout or barley wine. But, dinner is a huge bowl of a pretty spicy lentil soup, and nothing goes better with spicy food than a pilsner.

This one pours a super clear yellow, with a white head that thins but stays due to good carbonation. That's fairly unusual for a pils, even a malty German one.

Smells crisp and has the right pils funk, but it's pretty light. More sophisticated? We'll see. Definitely smells maltier. Not quite sweet, but just more substantial.

It's a more subtle, more malty German pils, instead of a more funky in your face Czech type. Moderate bitterness with a heavier body than a Czech, so it doesn't fizz away in the feel as fast and isn't as sharp in the smell or taste.

Good beer. I prefer Chezchs, but this is right on type for a German. My only complaint is that it's a little too sweet, but again that's from the maltier German style. Many people say a German pils is a lot hoppier, but this one shows that you can do it right without over-hopping it (I'm looking at you, Prima Pils, you ridiculous excuse for a beer).

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Sand Creek Brewing Company's Woody's Wheat

I guess you can tell that I just got a shipment from a beer of the month club in, because this is my second beer form Sand Creek tonight. Wheats are some of my favorites, too, so I'm looking forward to this one.

This one pours a deep, unfiltered and glowingly-opaque hazy yellow with amber where the least light penetrates the beer. Looks like it's going to be one of the more substantial hefes. Fairly strong carbonation that still can't keep the light off-white head at more than a collar. That's OK though, wheats are like that.

Smells sweet, a little phenolic though. Uh-oh, I hate that, and all that it implies. Damnit it looks great, but smells like a band aid. Damnit, I have to drink it. And I know I'm not going to like it.

Yeah, it's like drinking a band aid. I always like the way band aids smelled as a kid. The ones with the plastic tan sticky parts, and the cloth ones, always smelled the same. Medicinal, like you just knew that it was going to make your cut better. Johnson & Johnson must have intentionally imbedded that smell into the materials they used to give a sense of comfort to the six year old that was about to put it on his finger. It was comforting.

Not so with beer though. It reminds me of the Belgians I no longer enjoy. It's well within type though, because hefes are acceptably phenolic. This one's better than most, too, because it's drier and a little more tart than others. I often hear that people get banana and clove tastes in beers like this, but I disagree completely with that. I like bananas, but not this. And cloves are distinctive, but this has none of the clove spice to it. I think that people taste phenols and just say clove and banana because that's what they think they're supposed to say, because this isn't even close to that.

Objectively, this is probably a good beer. It's like a Blue Moon or Shiner Hefeweizen on roids. Well within the type, leaning toward the heavier-bodied side of the style. Well worth it to folks who love Belgians, but it's just not for me.

Sand Creek Brewing Company's English Style Special Ale

It's hard to get excited about an English Brown Ale, but they can be solid beers that are god to go to when you want something a little more robust than a pilsner or kolsch, without all of the hoppy nonsense of a pale.

This one pours more like an imperial red than a brown, at least in color if not body. Light tan head that stays longer than any brown I can remember, and that's a good sign. Moderate carbonation.

Another malty, bready beer for tonight. I've had so many uber-stouts lately that I've kind of lost touch, but it's great to have a few in a row that are more mild but perfect for their type.

Malty with a nutty, almost coffee bitterness. A great alternative to the in-your-face grassy bitterness that comes from hops in unadulturated quantities that mask every other thing about a beer. Solid malt backbone to it, although the bready smell doesn't really translate to the taste. This is a well balanced brown that I wish was more widely distributed.

Lancaster Brewing's Winter Warmer

Well, it says it's a winter warmer, but its listed as an old ale, so it's probably a less spicy version of a warmer, which is OK with me because spices can be easily overdone.

Pours deep opaque reddish brown with a huge tan head and good carbonation.

Fantastic bready smell. It subsides when the head dies down some, but this is what a malty beer should smell like.

The malt is balanced by an indistinct bitterness that finishes with a slightly sharp alcohol taste that warms nicely. Great warmer, and despite the slight taste of the alcohol it actually hides its 8.9% ABV very well. The fact that the alcohol comes out is what makes it passable as a warmer, but it has a vinous almost bordeaux hint to it as well, like an old ale should.

Great beer. Only my second from Lancaster, and it has convinced me to keep coming back to them.

Monday, January 26, 2009

O'Fallon Brewery's 5 Day IPA

A good beer from Missouri? I'm as shocked as you are.

Admittedly, IPA isn't my favorite style. I find them to generally be one-dimensional excuses for brewers to pump up the hops in a beer in order to hide the fact that they can't brew something that can stand on its own without an overly-bitter camouflage for their substandard ingredients. But, if done well, they can be a treat.

This particular one pours a hazy amber with a great tan head. Looks to be loosely filtered instead of any form of chill haze. Looks like it'll be substantial.

I can smell it already, grassy hops that the carbonation and head throw off like crazy. When you get closer to it the bready malt comes out strongly, making this at least smell well balanced.

Great level of bitterness in the taste with an orange-citrus zing that is different but fitting. Well balanced in the feel and taste, but understandably the hops take charge. Still, a well balanced IPA doesn't mean that there can't be prominent hops, and in fact that's part of the point but it shouldn't get out of control, and this one doesn't. Fairly high carbonation makes it a little lighter bodied than it would have been otherwise. Drink this one cold, because its only negative characteristic is that it gets a slight chemical taste as it warms.

Rogue Ales' Brutal Bitter

Although their XS series is a bit pricey (with the exception of Morimoto, which isn't truly XS but still an imperial and in their ceramic bottles), and the guy on heir labels is kind of cheesy, Rogue puts out some consistently good beer and I was happy to see their version of an ESB on the shelf.

It pours a solid amber with a huge tan head that stays for ever. Looks perfect for the type, and as usual Rogue can make a beer with a head that is considerable.

Smells like a bitter. Malty with solid hops that smell a bit grassy. Has a hint of pale or amber to it, but only because of the huge head throwing off so much of the smell. When that dies down you're left with a balanced smell that has both hops and a slightly bready malt.

Excellent bitterness, but not as bitter as an IPA. More like a pale or amber, but drier in the feel. Slightly grassy, but mostly just straight-up bitter without real definition. Not floral, not piney, barely grassy. Slightly sweet with a hint of bread from the malt.

Great beer. Solidly bitter without any one overbearing characteristic, right down the middle of the type. And while that usually denotes an unimiganitive beer, the fact is that this particular type calls for modesty despite the aggressive name. Hope it stays in the stores on a regular basis.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Deschutes Brewery's Obsidian Stout

I'm always looking for beer I can't get in Texas, and this one came to me through one of the internet beer stores to the right. Deschutes Brewery's Obsidian Stout has many characteristics of the bigger impy stouts that I love, with a little less alcohol. To me, that just means I can drink more of it before I get to where I can't taste anything.

Pours super-opaque for a beer that's not billed as an RIS or double stout. Great dark tan head, almost as dark as Ten FIDY's, and it stays for a while.

Great roasted malt smell. Grassy hops fight through the malt, but not too much.

Straight forward. Lighter in body than it looks like it would be, but that's more because it looks like an RIS than anything else. More carbonated and lighter in feel than an RIS, which is exactly how it should be. Non-distinct bitterness can't fight through the roasted malt flavor, which is substantial. Larger sips bring out the bitterness a bit more, and oddly enough a slight alcohol taste.

Great beer. Probably my favorite straight-up stout (I'm not counting Founders Breakfast Stout as straight-up), and it even edges out a few RIS's.

Beer Alliance of Texas

Today's Houston Chronicle has an interesting article about lobbyists, and there are two sayings that always come to mind whenever I think about lobbyists. First, is 'follow the money.' And second is 'two things you never want to see being made are sausage and legislation.'

Well, the more you follow the money, the more you realize you really do want to know how legislation is made. Take, for example, the fact that one of the single largest lobbyists in the last legislative session was the Beer Alliance of Texas.

Now, information on exactly what it is that the Alliance does is sorely lacking. I found a reference or two about distributing education materials on the responsible consumption of beer, and that's undeniably a Good Thing(TM). But--what else are they asking for? We have little way to tell. One thing's for sure, though, with an address on High Life Drive, the chances are that they don't have the small brewer at heart. It's also interesting to hear that their "contact" person is often listed as the very same lobbyist listed in the Chronicle article--telling me that the organization is little more than a lobbyist organization.

It's also interesting to note that so far in preparation for this upcoming legislative session they've already paid about $75,000. $5,000.00 went to recently ousted House Speaker Tom Craddick (OOPS). Also interesting is that folks like Joe Huggins, who is the President of Houston Distributing Company is one of the Alliance's contributors.



Another wonderful example of following the money is when you see who's been lining State Senator Gallegos' pockets. Despite not being up for election this past year he accepted more money than any other Texas legislator in either house, and was beat out only by Governor Perry and a few other state-wide office holders. He is a leading recipient of funds from various PAC's, but one in particular draws my attention where beer is concerned. One of his most recent contributors was a PAC run by Locke Liddell, a law firm with one of the most entrenched Republican lobbies in Texas. One of their largest contributors is Silver Eagle Distributors.

Why does this matter, you ask? Because Gallegos just sponsored a bill to eliminate a tax break for micro brewers.

Yeah, I thought Republicans were all about fostering small businesses too. But not when they compete with their campaign contributors, I guess. Gallegos is a Democrat you say? Why yes he is. And evidently his vote is for sale. He serves on no committees that have a thing to do with alcohol or taxes, and his only connection to beer is that he receives money from Silver Eagle, which also contributed money to Texans For a Republican Majority PAC. That's only incidental to the beer issue, but it does complete the picture that Senator Gallegos, a Democrat, is one of the state's leading whores if he takes money from heavily Republican contributors.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Breckenridge Brewery's Oatmeal Stout

With a couple of exceptions, Breckenridge is a lackluster brewery producing lackluster beers under lackluster labels. This is one of those exceptions.

Their oatmeal stout pours an opaque black, with a small tan head that thins to a collar. Smells like grainy, sharp molasses, with a roasted smell.

Sharp for an oatmeal stout, like they skimped a bit on the oatmeal, but it's not out of type because it gives way to both a moderate bitterness and a slight sweetness from the oats. Deep, roasted malt. Straight-up (non-RIS, anyway) stouts like this are lighter in body than I like, but that's my subjectivity. It has the right amount of malt backbone and body with the classic roasted taste of a stout, with the oats contributing the smoothness and sweetness that would otherwise be absent.

My favorite Breckenridge beer so far.

Tommyknocker Brewery's Cocoa Porter Winter Warmer

I have to admit that this brewery's stupid name and stupid labels kept me from trying their beers for a long time. I guess I should have known better, since I've bought beers just because of the label, and was sorely disappointed. But Tommyknocker Brewery's Cocoa Porter Winter Warmer is just one example of why you shouldn't judge a beer by its label. Being a porter means it's not a "true" winter warmer, but both winter warmer and American porter are categories so broad that there's bound to be some overlap.

Pours an opaque deep brown with a good tan head that thins to a sheet. Fairly large bubbles can be seen only at the edges of the glass.

Great vinous smell, with a sweetness that seems to be more like a milk stout than cocoa. Solid grainy malt backbone to it as well.

Obvious cocoa taste, with a good body that's right for a porter. A bit fizzy, but that doesn't detract from the feel too much. Substantial roasted malt taste with hops showing up for the first time. Moderately hopped, and sweet, from the cocoa. Hint of coffee from the roasted malts comes through in the aftertaste.

It has a sweet cocoa taste that fits as a cocoa porter, but it's lighter in body than a porter, which fits as a winter warmer. I don't know, personally it feels like a chocolate bock, because it has a hint of a lager taste with a malty, heavy lager feel. Either way, I like it. It doesn't fit neatly into any single pigeon hole, like beer nerds like to cram each and every beer into, but it's a darker beer with solid flavor and a light feel. It's not often that that combination works out.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Sierra Nevada Brewing Company's Porter

Bill Clinton once said that there's nothing wrong with America that can't be fixed by what's right with America. And to me, Sierra Nevada exemplifies what's right with America. It's a solid company with big beers that is successful enough to reach macro status in capacity while not dumbing down their recipes to reach the masses (I'm looking at you, Sam Adams), or having to get there by means of advertising because taste and quality aren't enough on their own (still looking at you).

Everything is streamlined, and simple. Good, solid beers in recognizable, unique labels, and not a bum in the bunch. So tonight's Sierra Nevada Porter is a guaranteed good beer.

It pours an opaque black with amber to red highlights and a thick tan head that gets pillowy and very slowly fades. Difficult to tell what the carbonation is by sight, but it supports a good sized head for some time.

Smells almost like a stout because it's a bit grainy, but it's more rich than a stout, a little deeper. Slight hops, a bit sweet, and molasses that puts it solidly in the porter style. Very slightly vinous as it warms, and low carbonation keeps it smooth and buttery in the feel.

Very good porter, and just one more example of how a beer should be even if your company grows bigger than you thought it ever would (Sam...).