This place is in the old fake Luling City Market off West Gray, and I'm in the area frequently so I thought I'd give it a shot. Plus, I was in between hearings and had plenty of time for lunch and a beer. Or two.
First impression: Five meat combo! Why don't more places do this?
Sauce is light and vinegary. Hint of black pepper, with a non-distinct red pepper zip. Not bad, but meh.
Cole slaw was light instead of sloppy and soaked in mayo, with chives. Good stuff. Pinto beans were well cooked with primarily black pepper and a bit of the sauce, it seems. Good, especially because there's no hint of the ranch style taste that so many places have.
Sausage had a crisp skin and were moderately smoked, but had a bit too much of a summer sausage taste to them. Nicely ground though, not chunky and fatty like a summer sausage.
Pulled pork is nicely smoked and lean. Pulls apart easily and is moist. Good stuff.
Finally, a well-smoked brisket in Houston. It could stand a slight salt rub, but not much of one. It's lean and moist with a substantial smoke layer. Good stuff.
The ribs are a let down after the rest. They're chewy, and because I was here fairly soon after they opened I suspect they're from yesterday. They were also a bit on the cool side. They have a slight rub that tastes like the sauce, which doesn't compliment the meat at all. They were lean and had decent smoke flavor though, so drop the rub and serve them off the smoker and I bet they'll be good.
I won't be back, mostly because it failed to top my favorite Mexican food restaurant in the area, but this place has potential. Just tweak a few things, and it'll be one of the best places in Houston. As it is, it's got a couple of high points but overall is solidly in the pack of halfway decent BBQ places in Houston.
138 West Gray
Houston, Texas 77019
(713) 527-8100
Mon. to Sat. 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Monday, July 19, 2010
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