Friday, January 23, 2009

Tommyknocker Brewery's Cocoa Porter Winter Warmer

I have to admit that this brewery's stupid name and stupid labels kept me from trying their beers for a long time. I guess I should have known better, since I've bought beers just because of the label, and was sorely disappointed. But Tommyknocker Brewery's Cocoa Porter Winter Warmer is just one example of why you shouldn't judge a beer by its label. Being a porter means it's not a "true" winter warmer, but both winter warmer and American porter are categories so broad that there's bound to be some overlap.

Pours an opaque deep brown with a good tan head that thins to a sheet. Fairly large bubbles can be seen only at the edges of the glass.

Great vinous smell, with a sweetness that seems to be more like a milk stout than cocoa. Solid grainy malt backbone to it as well.

Obvious cocoa taste, with a good body that's right for a porter. A bit fizzy, but that doesn't detract from the feel too much. Substantial roasted malt taste with hops showing up for the first time. Moderately hopped, and sweet, from the cocoa. Hint of coffee from the roasted malts comes through in the aftertaste.

It has a sweet cocoa taste that fits as a cocoa porter, but it's lighter in body than a porter, which fits as a winter warmer. I don't know, personally it feels like a chocolate bock, because it has a hint of a lager taste with a malty, heavy lager feel. Either way, I like it. It doesn't fit neatly into any single pigeon hole, like beer nerds like to cram each and every beer into, but it's a darker beer with solid flavor and a light feel. It's not often that that combination works out.

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